New York Fashion Week SS18 Review
The beginning of September has arrived bringing with it New York Fashion Week. Front-running the fashion capitals favourite event of the year, with London, Milan and Paris ending the month on a high.
With many homegrown designers such as: Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, and Thom Browne deciding to ditch New York for Paris. The new lineup for NYFW is sure to show a changing landscape from past seasons. So what will SS18 NYFW bring, and what is to be the future of the fashion week? Let's take a look at our reviews and top picks and find out.
Inspiration for the show came from the American horror genre and was teamed with art from American artist, Sterling Ruby. Sterling Ruby's art was also used in his debut for Haute Couture back in 2012 with Christian Dior. Similar macs were seen on both runways, and they were created for Calvin Klein, the only difference this time from Dior was that the pieces were in the form of Rain macs.
Stating in the show notes, the collection was inspired by; “cinema, from the dream factory of Hollywood and is depictions of both an American nightmare and all-powerful American dream.”
Unsure of whether this is a political statement from Raf himself, the show notes echoed the tumultuous nightmare that America may be under.
Floating dresses in 1950’s silhouettes were an alarming reference to the use of female innocence that is seen through American Horror films. These dresses simulated nightgowns that could be easily taken off the models and reimburse into horror films such as, Rosemary’s Baby.
Carrie also seemed to be an influence through the collection. With a red and white prom dress fashioned from a bin liner look, also on the runway, tasselled dresses and bags were highlighted and they could be reminiscent of cheerleader’s pom poms.
Latex gloves were an accessory which was maintained throughout the whole of the show, on both the female and male models. Often they were teamed with latex dresses and hyper feminine silhouettes. When they were teamed with a bloodstained mac, the piece screamed American Psycho.
One thing that Raf can do, is breathe fresh air into an outdated collection. He has done this with Christian Dior, after takin over as creative director from John Galliano, but he has now done so with Calvin Klein. Simons makes a collection modern, and collections that resemble the current generations.
However, something that Simons can’t do is leave behind 1950’s silhouettes which are a trademarks of past houses. The hyper-feminine silhouettes are bleeding from the veins of Raf, however we can hope that he can maintain this silhouette and make it his own.
hat TIBI do so well is that they can create minimal looks which can become statements. Their use of large accessories excels their garments to the nth degree, and make sure that they aren’t slipping into the background, despite the impeccable tailoring.
TIBI have implemented the trend of power dressing for women through the use of skirt suits and shoulder pads on the runway. But they have also allowed femininity to run alongside this trend, with their versatile collection offering to the contemporary woman.
A brand that has moved from Hong Kong to New York, the brand have expressed an inspiration from the women in the surrounding areas. They design garments for a woman who goes to work, and who is in power of their own self – but also can make a masculine garments work for them.
What Victoria Beckham does best is creating looks that you can imagine her wearing, more often than not she only wears her own designs. But her collections are created with a sense of effortless chic behind them.
Her use of silks and chiffons create a movement to her designs which make the pieces come alive, but also compliment the models body to their best degree.
“This collection is really about the many powers of femininity,” explained Beckham. “It’s the idea that delicacy can be strong.”
The use of wide-leg trousers and loose fitting V-neck dresses are always part of her show, never mind the season. But what Victoria can create, is a collection that is almost the same every season and have the ability to make it fresh.
Her use of colour palette and fabrics creates a collection that is fresh. This season the use of translucent fabrics creates a more sensual atmosphere to what has been seen from the line before.
Statement red and pink suits from the designer have made their way onto the catwalk again, which is beginning to create a trademark for Victoria. Similar silhouettes through the collection can provide an insight to the inspiration behind the collection, inspiration seemingly coming from Christian Dior in AW12 and Stella McCartney.
Expressed through the show, sorbet pastel trends will be back in force in the Summer, with extra interest in pastel green, yellow and purple.
Sander Lak has created a collection which differs from previous seasons, stating that; “I make clothes. And more than anything with my clothes, I want them to be easy.” Which is something of a change with recent trends from fashion houses.
NOTES FROM NYFW
The trend that will be falling through SS18 is minimal 90’s fashion, this was seen on almost all collections throughout NYFW; but predominantly through Creatures of the Wind and their monochromatic collection which included vinyl trench coats and tinted yellow sunglasses. Think Kate Moss for Calvin Klein Spring Summer 1999.
Just a quick one to state about Alexander Wangs’ show is that he is unsure of what “wang” can mean in some parts of England; perhaps he would decide against the put the slogan“Wangover” on top of Kendall Jenner’s head.