Stockholm Fashion Week SS18 Review

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With three weeks to go to until the fashion chaos lands in London, fashion weeks is making its way across Northern Europe. Copenhagen Fashion Week claimed the crown with their colourful and influencer-filled front rows; but how will Stockholm differ?

Alike LFW, Stockholm hold their fashion education in the cities heart, with the Swedish School of Textiles holding a renowned place on the timetable, alike Central Saint Martins. But is the next Alexander McQueen hiding in the depths of the cobbled streets of Stockholm? It's time to find out with the review of Stockholm Fashion Week SS18. 

 

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AT Spegelsalen, Grand Hôtel Stockholm

Kicking off Stockholm Fashion Week was WHYRED. The characteristics of the house submit themselves to subcultures and the modern society. With the impact of inspiration behind the house, it only implements the way that their garments can become signature pieces to a designer. 

PHOTOGRAPH: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn

 

WHYRED have tapped into trends with the SS18 collection. wide-leg trousers and suits have made their way into the collection. Behind the scenes inspiration for these garments may have come from David Bowie during his Berlin years, think the 'Life on Mars?' music video and the infamous blue suit. 

With both female and male models walking down the runway, the house shows the audience how versatile the suit can be, and how it can maintain strength and power through both genders.  

Street-style is a main component to the Scandinavian fashion scene, with the ideas of 'trend' and 'coolness' seeping their way through all attendees of any fashion weeks. WHYRED have crafted a collection for everyone, and the collection has proven to be worthy of the camera lens of street-style fashion bloggers. 

Signature pieces from WHYRED were redesigned for the catwalk, including parkas embellished with floral prints and re-establishing the dominance of the classic long-line mac.  

Stated by the designers Roland Hjort & Jonas Bladmo:

"WHYRED art is not an end-in itself. It’s an opportunity for us to criticize the times we’re living in."

 

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AT Bolinderska Rummet, Grand Hôtel Stockholm

A breath of femininity was brought back to fashion week amongst the hectic atmosphere. 

PHOTOGRAPH: Olof Grind

Creating a sense of fresh air and space, Stylein do what they have always done best. Creating a minimalist collection without the pieces  feeling like they have been repeated. The timeless cuts and tailoring of garments, makes Stylein stand out.

Fashion week brings any city full, filling a city with social butterflies and a plethora of fashion busy-bodies; Stylein created a breath of fresh air, a retreat from the chaos. 

Bare-faced models with slicked back hair reassessed the muse behind the collection; the iconic ballerina Diana Vishneva. The black and white colours of the collection are striking against the multi-coloured concoction of journalists, bloggers and influencers sitting and standing around the runway. 

Trousers and dresses were mostly crafted in Silk and Satin, similar to what the house have been created since their AW17 collection. Materials used created a movement to the models that added to the aesthetic of femininity, additionally it shows the body control of the models, that are similar Stylein's muse. 

“I am so inspired by Diana’s motivation, strength and persistence. To me, she symbolizes that success is something you have to fight for, it’s nothing that is simply handed to you. I always try to apply this to my craft."

Jackets by Stlyein have often provided a similar shape to the Kimono, with billowing balloon sleeves and  low v-neck cut outs. The use of belting was also seen on jumpsuits, skirts and dresses. A linear design has begun to etch itself through the collection, creating a trademark for the house. 

Ending the show came models draped in Satin in sullen colours, indenting the audience with the aesthetic of femininity. Something that Elin Alemdar has been redesigning since the SS17 collection.  

Elon Alemdar has created a collection that is made for city life. Stylein combines a timeless yet contemporary design expression, created for all fashion occasions. 

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AT Smålandsgatan 12

What Rodebjer are known for is crafting a silhouette for the everyday woman. Creating something that is comfortable, but also  highlighting the confidence of a woman. The use of slouchy materials for dresses has created a collection that is ready for anytime of the day. 

PHOTOGRAPH: Olof Grind

Rodebjer are known for the inspiration drawn from Swedish counter-culture. The main influences of human rights, feminist culture, film and art are continually used by Rodebjer; this being a signifier to the women who are likely to be wearing Rodebjer. These women are strong, powerful and intelligent.  

Founded in 1999, garments have made their way from the wardrobes of friends of Carin Rodebjer in New York, and now are gracing luxury department stores across the world. After winning several renowned awards, Rodebjer is now known as one of Sweden’s most appreciated fashion brands.

What seems obvious from watching and understanding the many brands that are showcasing at SFW, is that  designers aren't drawing inspiration from the past, but yet they are focusing on modern culture. Designers from SFW seem to be moving forward through their sense of the modern day - they are not creating for the influencers, but making the influencers who they are through their collections. 

According to designer, Carin Rodebjer, the collection is inspired by Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good”. The collection is said to embrace positive change and movement, while presenting a global woman who moves across borders with integrity and independence.

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AT Spegelsalen, Grand Hôtel Stockholm

Alike CSM, the Swedish School of Textiles is ready to take risks with their graduate show. Many of the graduates played with the idea of what a garment should look like, and what the functionality of a piece is. Questioning all together, what is a fashion?

PHOTOGRAPH: Olof Grind

Clemens Thornquist, professor in Fashion Design at the Swedish School of Textiles stated: 

"The collections simply present both principal and practical aspects of design vision"

As most graduate fashion shows go, the Swedish School of Textiles isn't lacking behind the designs of other worldwide fashion schools, and they are certainly not lacking in their sense of eccentricity. With the brief behind all designers obviously implemented through all of the collections. The playful collection seemed to have drawn snippets of inspiration from Rei Kawakubos' Comme des Garçons.

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AT Spegelsalen, Grand Hôtel Stockholm

Created from the minds of three sisters, House of Dagmar somehow mix together chaos within their knitwear and dresses. With an implemented utilitarian style of the collection, House of Dagmar makes sure that the shapes are geometric and architectural creating a paradigm for those who chose to wear their pieces. 

PHOTOGRAPH: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn

With a strong female bond behind the house, the collection provided a sense of female solidarity. The key garment of the collection came in the form of the blanket, and the repeated use of kaftans. House of Dagmar used the shape of the kaftan to provide the woman wearing the piece with a sense of comfort, and the manipulation of the design in every designed garment created a sense of empowerment and protection. 

The main influence behind SS18 House of Dagmar collection is the rise of the female communities. Stated by the main designer, Kristina Tjäder: 

"Women of different cultures and generations coming together to protest as a response to the political changes inspires the Dagmar woman this season."

Main colours throughout the collection were minimalist, however they were exaggerated with the influenced of strong accents of electric blue and strong yellow. 

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AT Gävlegatan 12A

Stating themselves, Hope are a brand that claims that style comes before gender within their collection. This is obvious through their SS18 collection with the influence of suiting and dominant plaid and check. 

PHOTOGRAPH: Olof Grind

Hope pride themselves on creating collections that can be worn by anybody; a stylish collection that also doesn't hold you to an occasion.  Double-breasted suits were worn by both female and male models. Hope have created a suit which feels relaxed and bypasses the workwear aesthetic that it was created for. 

Hope stated themselves, that they have created a distinct season-neutral approach to the current collection. 

"We have worked with a distinct season-neutral approach – it’s a collection for summer, as well as for winter – and focus is on individuality and personal strength."

A sense of power is implemented through the designs, with tight knit tailoring, but with the addition of cropped trousers and slouched materials. Hope have played with both sides of a silhouette, creating a collection which doesn't comply to any of fashions main rules. 

 

What are your favourite shows from Stockholm Fashion Week? What were your favourite pieces from any collections? Let us know what you think, we would love to know your thoughts.